Historical Tidbits: Cannabis Beer, 1998

In the 1990s, as now, beermakers of all sizes scrambled to figure out how to woo an increasingly fragmented consumer audience. Novelty (read: weird) beer styles flowed freely: ice beer, clear beer, flavored beers.

The Frederick Brewing Company of Frederick, Maryland put its own spin on anything-goes: Hempen Ale, which it brewed using seeds of the cannabis plant. The company's brewmaster hastened to assure the concerned that the brewery used sterilized seeds that would not reproduce and so could not be used to grow pot.

The seeds, explained the company's CEO, added protein and produced a beer with "an earthy slightly spicy flavor" and a "frothy meringue-like head." 

Head retention, he added, was "incredible." [High on head?]

The New York Times reporter who visited the brewery agreed. The beer's "creamy froth lasted thirty minutes," she told readers.

As for the beer itself? A "nicely bitter brown ale, clean and crisp with a gentle aroma and hoppy aftertaste." Price? In Manhattan a bottle ranged from 99 cents on the Upper West Side, to $1.75 on the Upper East Side, and $1.59 in chic SoHo. (That's roughly $1.25 to $2.25 in today's dollars.)

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Source: "Cannabis Beer? Not What You Think," New York Times, April 15, 1998, p. F7.

Historians and the Preservation of Newspaper Content, Part 4 of 4

Part 1 --- Part 2 --- Part 3 --- Part 4 One more point about saving newspapers: Newspapers as source material and the weirdness of what matters and what doesn’t. (This, by the way, isn’t directly  connected to the three previous parts of this series, but it’s as good a place as any to make my point.)

As I mentioned in part one, historians today enjoy access to digital archives of many newspapers. It’s possible to read and search the first issue ever published of, say, the New York Times and the Boston Globe. Makes sense, right? We all know that those are important daily newspapers with huge readerships. They’re both regarded as significant records of American life.

Here’s the kicker: Those newspapers were archived because they’re the survivors. But in the nineenth century, neither newspaper was particularly important. Indeed, for decades, the New York Times was a no-account also-ran to three other newspapers: The New York Herald, the New York Tribune, and the New York World. (Throw in the NY Sun, and you’ve got the nation’s Big Four of the nineteenth century). (Several of these papers folded into each other. At one point, for example, the Herald and Tribune merged.) Ditto the Boston Globe, an also-ran to a number of that's city's newspapers.

If you’re a historian and you want to research nineteenth century America, you want to read the most important sources, right? You want to read the NY Tribune or the NY Herald. Lotso luck. All of the afore-mentioned are available on microfilm, but not digitally. There’s a not very useful printed index for the Tribune (or is it the Herald?), but no way otherwise to search these important sources.

Why? Because when various libraries began filming newspapers in the twentieth century, they focused on what were THEN the important papers, in this case the Times and the Globe, rather than the newspapers that had been, in the 19th century, larger and more widely read.

So historians have access to amazing digital newspaper archives -- but those are not necessarily the archives that matter most for historical research. The same is true, by the way, for the two main archives for small-town newspapers: newspaperarchive.com and geneaologybank.com. (Although I have to say that if you can only subscribe to one, go with geneaologybank.com. Newspaperarchive.com is badly designed, riddled with bugs, and hard to use.)

Don’t get me wrong: these are amazing resources for historians. Using these two archives, I’ve been able to piece together the story of major changes in nineteenth century American meat processing and distribution, a story that has never been fully told because of lack of sources.

But those databases also contain newspapers that various Powers That Be decreed as important. In this case, there’s a definitely skew toward New England newspapers, especially ones published in Massachusetts.  (Big relief! By sheer coincidence, the meat-related changes I’m researching unfolded Massachusetts.)

Put another way, these databases are based on decisions made decades ago by various historical societies that decided X was important, not Y. What’s the conclusion? As always, nothing with any wow-factor. Digital newspaper archives are extraordinary tools for research, but no one should assume that they’re perect, or that they’re accurate representations of American society in the past.

"Good" Craft Brewers v. "Bad" Craft Brewers? Real v. Not-Real?

I've long been fascinated by the way craft beer "insiders" (aka beer geeks) perceive their perceived "enemy": Mainstream Beer. Logic and reason seem to fly out the brain's window when fans of craft beer contemplate who ought to be allowed into the craft beer club and who ought not. (A point I contemplated at length in the last chapter of my book Ambitious Brew: The Story of American Beer.)

A prime example is a fascinating blog entry just posted by the ever-contrarian Andy Crouch -- a followup to a blog entry he wrote a week or so ago.

This is all apropos of another example of the illogic of the beer geeks: The desire of some of them to oust "foreign" beers from the Great American Beer Festival.

The GABF is just what the name implies: a festival devoted to American beer. Last year, there was rumbling that Anheuser-Busch, MillerCoors, and Leinenkugel all ought to be booted from the festival because  they're "foreign owned." (Leinenkugel is owned by SABMiller.)

What I wondered at the time was: Do critics want to go that road? Because that would also mean booting Mendocino Brewing Company, one of the oldest craft brewers in the United States. It's been foreign-owned since the late 1990s. That, by the way, is not a criticism of Mendocino's original owners; in the late 1990s they faced a choice: sell or go under. They opted to sell --- to save the company --- and to continue to make great beer.

Of course the more interesting question is this: How many people who drink Mendocino know that it's no longer wholly-American-owned?

More to the point, if they did know, would they suddenly decide that the beer is undrinkable? Hard to know. Worth pondering. (And if you're up for more beer-related ruminations, check out Stan's latest blog entry, in which he asks people to comment on "extreme beers.")

Massachusetts Microdistilleries

If you've been reading this blog for long, you know I'm a fan of spirits (the drinkable kind), and especially the amazing liquids that come out of microdistilleries. (*1)

(And if you've not been reading this blog, what the hell's the matter with you?)

Anyway, nice piece about the "industry" in today's Boston Globe.

Tip o' the mug to David Fahey at the Alcohol and Drugs History Society Daily Register.

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*1: Bill Owens, microbrewing pioneer and world-renown photographer, founded and now runs the American Distilling Institute, the first trade group for micro-distillers.

In the Kitchen: Bacon and Cheese Muffins

I originally found this recipe in the newspaper -- it was an AP piece. I made it once, decided it had possibilities, and then fiddled with the recipe. My version is better (or so I think).

One note: I usually make this as muffins, but one of these days I'm going to try simply baking it in a dish instead. That would eliminate the hassle of washing the muffin tins. I freeze these and then thaw them on the counter or in microwave (about 30 seconds.)

With a piece of fruit, makes a great lunch or breakfast. (They're filling!)

  • 3 cups flour (swap a cup of whole wheat for white if you want to)
  • 1 T. baking powder
  • 1/2 t. baking soda
  • 1/2 t. salt
  • cayenne pepper to taste
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1-1/3 c. buttermilk
  • 2 T. canola oil
  • 4 T. butter, melted
  • 1/3 c. minced scallion
  • 4-5 slices bacon
  • 1 c. grated cheese; use whatever you want. Maytag Cheddar is especially yummy!
  • 1/2 c. diced green pepper

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Oven to 400 degrees. Grease the muffin cups or baking dish.

Fry the bacon until quite crisp (so you can crumble it into bite-size bits)  In a large bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients  In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, and oil. If the melted butter is still hot, stir in a couple of spoonfuls of this mixture to temper its heat. (Otherwise the hot butter will curdle the milk.)

Then add the butter to the rest of the wet ingredients.  Stir the scallions, cheese, bacon, and green pepper into the wet ingredients. I recommend using a large fork so you can separate and mix these bits into the liquid.

 Add wet ingredients to dry, using a spatula or wooden spoon to mix until just moistened.

Spoon the batter into the muffin tins (they will be full) or baking dish.  Bake until the tops are browned, 20-25 minutes. Let cool for 10 or 15 minutes. Loosen edges with knife and remove.