What's On My Mind? Reading. Weeping.

I added an UPDATE below (see *3) to clarify a point raised on Twitter. Three essays/op-eds danced through my Twitter stream this morning --- all of the in the "read it and weep" category (of which, in my opinion, there's entirely too much these days....) (*1) (But that's the essence of the human experience since we stood upright, right?)

First, this piece from the New York Times about the (truly) uncertain future of Barnes & Noble. That's on my mind because, well, I write books and . . .  well . . . . It's not clear that B&N will survive another year and if it goes the way of Borders, then the business and art of selling books in the United States is going to change dramatically. There aren't many "independent" bookstores left (and I weep for none of them, frankly) but Borders and B&N brought books to millions of Americans who'd never had access to bookstores. (*2)

Including me: I live in Iowa in a small town. I was thrilled nearly to tears when Borders opened a store in the Big Town (that would be Des Moines) about 30 miles from where I lived. I'd never really shopped at a bookstore before (because, ya know, I didn't have access to one). When I'd visit NYC, I'd always visit bookstores (including Barnes & Noble, which was born as a university bookstore near Union Square).

The high-minded "writers" who complained so loudly about the rise of Borders and B&N were talking out of their asses, as far as I was concerned. "The Big Box Booksellers are destroying small bookstores!" "The BBB are destroying literary culture in the U.S.!"

Bullshit. Borders and B&N brought "literary culture" to millions of people. Millions and millions of them.

Now, if B&N falls, the vast majority of Americans will have only one viable place to buy books: Amazon. I'm not sure that's such a bad thing. I've never complained about Amazon: from day one, it offered readers more books than Borders and B&N and has consistently provided great customer service.

But it IS an online shop. We can't wander around there and, ya know, browse. Well, okay, that's not true. I browse wide and deep at Amazon. It's "buyers who bought" is fabulous. Amazon? Love. It.

But: If Amazon is the only game in town, it will be able to do what it's already doing: play hardball with publishers. More than one book publishers has had its hands smacked by Amazon when they didn't play by Amazon's rules. Smacked as in: Amazon has pulled that house's books from Amazon's digital shelves.

The other issue is the one that more directly concerns me: visibility on Amazon. If that's the only place to buy my book, well, I gotta hope Amazon doesn't decide to get pissy with my publisher. If it does, I'm fucked. Royally. And I won't enjoy it.

Read-it-and-weep  no. 2 today is related: An op-ed piece, also in the New York Times, about the merger of Penguin and Random House (new name: Penguin Random House, not, sadly, Random Penguin). (Get it??) The relevant hanky line in the piece is this:

companies either forbid (as at Penguin) or restrict (at Random House) their constituent imprints from bidding against one another for a manuscript.

Translation: If one editor at Penguin Random House, now the largest trade publisher in the world, doesn't want your manuscript, chances are that you're screwed. Sigh.

Read-it-and-weep no. 3 is, happily, a change of subject: This piece by Henry I. Miller at Forbes on eco-terrorism.

For about a year, I wrestled with the whole "is genetic engineering good or bad." After a great deal of research and reading, I concluded that the Frankenfoods-GMOs will destroy the planet rap was complete bullshit. Complete and utter bullshit. It's yet another example of many people falling for a line of BS without bothering to check the facts. (Because, ya know, it's SOOOO much easier to simply blame Monsanto for everything that's wrong with the world, and facts be damned.)

Wierdly, thus far I've not seen any solid journalistic research into what Miller outlines here: the money path between the "Monsanto is evil" and the sponsors of that message. This is an area ripe for investigation. (I suspect that the reason it's not been excavated is because, sadly, "mainstream media" has fallen hook, line, and sinker for the "Monsanto is evil line" and because so many journalists already honor the "corporations are to blame for every. goddman. thing. that's wrong with the world.") (Alas.)

So. That's a bit of what's on my mind: Read-it-and-weeps 1 and 2 because I've got a new book coming out; and no. 3 because said book has led me down the rose-strewn path of food politics, which is waaay more complicated than I would have expected. (And since I didn't expect its complexity, yeah, I'm a fool.) (Sigh.)

________________

*1: Mock Twitter all you like, but the fact is that it's an amazing way to sift through the bajillions of pieces of information and reporting and writing and ideas about there.

*2: I have zero patience with the "Oh, independent bookstores must be saved" claptrap. My experience, admittedly limited, is that most indie booksellers are either a) totally incompetent and deserve to go out of business; or grade-A assholes --- snobby and condescending and rude (presumably because they view themselves as arbiters of culture as well as gatekeepers of literary culture) --- and so also deserve what they get.

*3: a friend tweeted a link to this post and one of his followers on Twitter is a bookseller who was, justifiably, dismayed by what he described as my vitriol toward indie bookstores.

So let me clarify: My stance toward indies is based on my experience as a CONSUMER/SHOPPER, not as an author.

As an author, frankly, I have no opinion. Small bookstores have limited shelf space and they're likely to not bother with small books like mine. That's a fact of life. The kinds of books I writer, and my lack of reputation, means I'm a waste of space for them. I don't hold that against them. They're in business to make money, and authors like me don't make money.

What I don't like is how I, as a potential customers, am typically treated in indie bookstores (and I might add that this  holds true for "small," "local" "Main Street" businesses in general): like an idiot, like a nuisance and a bother.

Here's one example: There's an indie store in Des Moines, the closest "big city" to where I live (Ames, Iowa). When the beer book came out, I went to that store, hoping maybe I could talk the owner into hosting a reading (my rationale being: I'm an Iowan, I'm local).

So I go into the store and here's what I was "greeted" with. There were two employees there. One was leaning against a wall talking on the phone. It was clear she was talking to a friend, not a customer. The other employee was slouched in a chair, playing a computer game. Neither one of them so much as looked in my direction (there were no other customers in the store). And I mean: neither of them even glanced up or at me. Had this been the first time this has ever happened to me in an independent store of any kind, I'd dismiss it as an aberration.

But this happens ALL. THE. TIME. in small, local shops, bookstore or otherwise. I browed the shelves for several minutes, thinking that perhaps one of them would, ya know, acknowledge their customer. Nope. I left. I've never gone back.

Here's another example: For awhile, there was an indie bookstore here in Ames where I live. When the Key West book came out, I went in hoping to persuade the owner to host a signing or reading. The employee on duty was headed to the backroom when I came through the door. She turned around, glanced at me, and then headed to the back. Not a word. No hello. No nuthin'.

Then there's the Very Famous Bookstore in Iowa City. Oy. Do I hate going there. In fact, I no longer do when I'm in IC. The clerks are staggeringly, shockingly rude and condescending. I don't know what kind of person they want in the store, but apparently it's not regular people. (Maybe scruffy, dreamy-eyed writer types from the Workshop??)

And these are only a few of the examples I could rattle off. Have I been to decent, welcoming indie bookstores? Yes. There's one in Boulder that's a total delight. And one in Santa Cruz, too. But mostly: they're a must to ignore. And again, my view is that of a customer (in the case of the first two examples, no one bothered to find out why I was there).

Historians, History, and [Accurate] "Story"

Another take on how I do what I do. Parts of this ran here several years ago. Again, for those following along: I'm experimenting with different formats and concepts, and no, I'm still not sure how this will all shake out.

Several years ago, a professor at a nearby university asked me to speak to her class; the required readings in the course included Ambitious Brew, my history of beer in America. I talked for fifteen or twenty minutes and then asked for questions (because audience questions are infinitely more interesting than whatever I have to say).

Up shot a hand and a young woman asked an obvious, intelligent question (which I’m here paraphrasing):

In the first chapter, you describe Phillip Best hauling his new brewing vat through the streets of Milwaukee. But that scene reads like a story; like fiction rather than fact. How do you know that’s what happened? Why should we believe you?

I was glad she asked. So glad. Because that question gets to the heart of what historians do.

For those who don’t have a copy of the book at hand, the scene she referred to unfolds on pp. 1-3. (*1) The setting is Milwaukee in 1844 and at its center is Phillip Best, the man who founded what eventually became Pabst Brewing Company. He and his family had recently emigrated to the U. S. and Milwaukee, and he was trying to find someone to fabricate a brew vat for the Bests’ new brewhouse. Here’s that scene:

Late summer, 1844. Milwaukee, Wisconsin Territory. Phillip Best elbowed his way along plank walkways jammed with barrels, boxes, pushcarts, and people. He was headed for the canal, or the “Water Power,” as locals called it, a mile-long millrace powered by a tree-trunk-and-gravel dam on the Milwaukee River. Plank docks punctuated its tumbling flow and small manufactories–a few mills, a handful of smithies and wheelwrights, a tannery or two–lined its length. Best was searching for a particular business as he pushed his way past more carts and crates, and dodged horses pulling wagons along the dirt street and laborers shouldering newly hewn planks and bags of freshly milled grain. He had only been in the United States a few weeks and Milwaukee’s bustle marked a sharp contrast to the drowsy German village where he and his three brothers had worked for their father, Jacob, Sr., a brewer and vintner.

Phillip finally arrived at the shop owned by A. J. Langworthy, metal worker and ironmonger. He presented himself to the proprietor and explained that he needed a boiler–a copper vat–for his family’s new brewing business. Would Langworthy fabricate it for them? The metalworker shook his head. No. “I [am] familiar with their construction,” he explained to Best, “. . . but I [dislike] very much to have the noisy things around, and [I do] not wish to do so.

Eventually Phillip persuaded Langworthy to make the vat, and a few weeks later, he returned to fetch the finished product:

It’s not clear how Phillip transported his treasure the half mile or so from Langworthy’s shop to the family’s brewhouse. Perhaps his new friend provided delivery. Perhaps Phillip persuaded an idling wagoner to haul the vat on the promise of free beer. Perhaps one or more of his three brothers accompanied him, and they and their burden staggered through Kilbourntown–the German west side of Milwaukee–and up the Chestnut Street hill. But eventually the vat made its way to the Bests’ property–the location of Best and Company and the foundation of their American adventure.

Yes, the student asked a good question: I wasn’t there. How in the world did I know what happened? Is this fact or fiction? If it’s the latter, why should my work as a historian be trusted?

Here’s how I answered her question: That scene was based on both fact and common sense.


Consider my description of Phillip’s journey to Langworthy’s shop.

I knew, based on evidence I’d found, that in the summer of 1844, the Best family had almost no money. They’d only just arrived in America and had not yet launched their business. According to an account I read, the family had spent nearly all its available cash buying a piece of property on which to build a small brewhouse. (*2) I knew they owned a horse (they relied on it to power their grindstone). (I learned about the horse from a letter Best wrote.)

But horses were (and are) expensive, and at the time, most people (and certainly the cash-poor like Best) walked rather than rode. Moreover, in 1844, Milwaukee, a relatively young town, had no form of public transportation. (At the time, Wisconsin was a territory, not a state. This was frontier.)

I also knew that the Best brewhouse was only about a half mile from Langworthy’s shop, an easy walk. How did I know? I found an ad for Langworthy’s business in a Milwaukee newspaper, an ad that included his address. Using a c. 1850 map of Milwaukee (the earliest map I could find), I located both the Bests’ property and Langworthy’s shop. Then I consulted a current map of Milwaukee to calculate the distance from the brewery to the shop. When I visited Milwaukee to conduct research at the library there, I also walked the route myself.

How did I know that Phillip’s walk took him past the millrace, the docks, the tanneries, and so forth? I reconstructed the town’s landscape by reading eyewitness descriptions of Milwaukee as it appeared in 1844, including letters, diaries, newspapers, and government documents.

Armed with what I’d learned, I was able to write an accurate description of Phillip’s trek from home to the business district, one based on multiple, verifiable facts.


But how do I know which sources are reliable, and which aren’t? When I’m prowling through the primary sources — letters, diaries, and so forth — I compare one source with another, hunting for multiple verifications of facts. In this case, I read many descriptions of Milwaukee, ones written by people living there at the time. I compared those with items delineated on that c. 1850 map, and with contemporary illustrations of the land

I also used secondary sources — books and articles written by other scholars. In this case, for example, I consulted several histories of Milwaukee.

But I only employ secondary sources after I’ve determined that they’re reliable; that I can trust their accuracy. As an example, let’s look at another excerpt from the book’s opening scene:

Phillip finally arrived at the shop owned by A. J. Langworthy, metal worker and ironmonger. He presented himself to the proprietor and explained that he needed a boiler–a copper vat–for his family’s new brewing business. Would Langworthy fabricate it for them? The metalworker shook his head. No. “I [am] familiar with their construction,” he explained to Best, “. . . but I [dislike] very much to have the noisy things around, and [I do] not wish to do so.”

Here I relied on an eyewitness account of Best’s visit to Langworthy’s shop: Langworthy himself. Several decades after the fact, the iron monger recounted the episode to a local newspaper reporter. (*3) (By the time Langworthy told the story to a reporter, the company that Phillip founded was the world’s largest brewery, although its then-owner had changed the name to Pabst Brewing Company.)

I found that interview in a history of Pabst Brewing written by another historian, Thomas Cochran. (Cochran’s history was thus a secondary source, but one based on primary sources.) (Here’s hoping you’re not totally confused.) I quoted Langworthy’s words, citing Cochran’s book as my source.

In this case, and rather unusually for me, I didn’t read the actual newspaper article. (*4) But I knew that I could trust Cochran: I was familiar with his career and had read other books by him. I was also able to verify many of the other sources he used in his book.(*5)

I trusted, in other words, that Cochran’s secondary account (his history of Pabst Brewing Company) was a reliable source of information and that the newspaper article he’d quoted was a reliable primary source. I was comfortable quoting Langworthy’s account of the encounter.


That’s an important part of what historians do: We don’t accept evidence at face value. We have to decide whether a piece of evidence is reliable and accurate. We have to decide whether we trust that bit of evidence. And sometimes, we don’t.

Here’s an example, also from Ambitious Brew, where I rejected the veracity of evidence. (This one is from pp. 102-103). The context for this excerpt is the “beer wars” of the 1890s and brewers’ efforts to control industry competition. Here I recounted an alleged encounter that took place between Adolphus Busch, who for many years headed Anheuser-Busch, and a group of rival brewers:

In one contest, according to Adolphus Busch’s grandson August “Gus” Busch, Jr., a group of small New Orleans brewers resisted Adolphus’s efforts to control that city’s trade. A prolonged struggled drove the barrel price well below the profit zone. Finally Adolphus ended the conflict by informing the men that he planned to “control the price of beer for the next 25 years. . . whatever goddamn price I put on my beer, you go up [or down] the same goddamn price.”

Many decades later, Gus Busch, who claimed to have witnessed the encounter, recounted the tale as evidence of his grandfather’s wily ways and masterful control over lesser men. If the Busches invaded, say, Peoria, they could afford to wait out the competition; could afford to absorb the losses incurred by selling barrels at cost. Small local breweries could not. More often than not, the conqueror drove the conquered into bankruptcy.

I found this anecdote in Under the Influence, a book about the Busch family written by two St. Louis journalists, Peter Hernon and Terry Ganey. Hernon and Ganey interviewed Gus Busch, and he told them this story. (*6)

As soon as I read the anecdote, I knew it wasn’t true, at least not as Gus Busch recounted it. (Notice that in the excerpt from my book, I included a modifier: “according to Adolphus Busch’s grandson August “Gus” Busch, Jr.. . . .”) So why did I include it in my book? Here’s the next paragraph in the book (from p. 103):

The anecdote, though it captures the brutality of the struggle, is most likely apocryphal. The most ferocious beer wars unfolded in the two decades prior to Gussie’s birth in 1899. Adolphus’s health failed in 1906, leaving him frail and wheelchair-bound; from then until his death in 1913, he spent most of his time in California or Europe. Even assuming the event took place as late as, say, 1910, when Gussie would have been eleven years old, Adolphus would not have been involved and his grandson too young to comprehend the grown-ups’ conversation, let alone remember it accurately some seventy-five years later. More likely the tale evolved over the years as part of the mythology that surrounded a family of successful men with over-sized personalities.

This is an important part of the historian’s task: Sifting through evidence to find the most reliable, verifiable pieces of information. I examine multiple sources of information and different kinds of evidence. Only then do I decide which evidence is reliable and which is not. (*7)

Is this art or craft? In my opinion (based on 25-plus years experience), it’s more craft than art. Historians learn to use and trust evidence through experience, trial-and-error, and the wisdom acquired from both. Does that mean I’m always “right”? No. But I make the best judgments I can, using the evidence at hand.


Finally, to return to where I started and the student in that class I visited: She commented that because the book read like a novel —- that it read like fiction rather than fact — she was skeptical about its contents.

My response was: Thank you!

That’s a compliment. I want my books to “read” like a novel — not in the sense that the content is fiction, but in the sense that the narrative has pace, action, “characters,” and a “story”-like structure: a beginning, a middle, and an end. (*8)

Why? Because that’s a useful way to present the sweep of history and to persuade readers that “history” is more than a boring string of facts. History is fascinating, and one way to understand historical events is by seeing them through the lives and eyes of the people who participated in them.

In the case of the beer book, for example, the first chapter covers an array of significant historical events and trends: the impact of immigration in mid-nineteenth-century America, including riots and battles between immigrants and “natives”; the prohibition movement of the 1850s; and Americans’ attitudes toward alcohol, to name just a few.

Those are Big Topics. I brought them down to earth and anchored their heft by attaching them to a real person, in this case Phillip Best. Surely it was more interesting to read about his stroll through Milwaukee than to read, say, a list of statistics about immigration.

That’s true throughout the book: I populated the “story” with real people, using their own words whenever possible. I also avoided professional jargon; I used active rather than passive verbs; I described scenery and surroundings.

It helped that I enjoyed access to a built-in cast of characters: Phillip Best anchored the Big Topic events of Chapter One. Once he exited the stage, Frederick Pabst (Phillip’s son-in-law) and Adolphus Busch entered. They carried the story for the next two chapters.

In Chapter Four, they’re around part of the time, but are joined by a man who was instrumental in launching the Anti-Saloon League, the organization that drove the push toward Prohibition in the 1890s and early twentieth century. And, because the Busch family multiplied I had plenty of “characters” to carry the narrative from Prohibition to the 1970s.

I struck gold for the book’s final two chapters, where I examine the craft beer “revolution” of the 1980s and 1990s. Many of the people who launched that industry are still alive, and I enjoyed an abundance of “actors” for my drama.

Throughout, however, I stuck to facts. If I speculated about an event, I was careful to say that “perhaps” something happened. Consider this final example, again from Chapter One, when Langworthy learns that Phillip Best does not have enough money to pay for the brewvat.

What happened next is a credit to A. J. Langworthy’s generosity and Phillip Best’s integrity. Langworthy was but a few years older than Phillip. Like Phillip, he had left the security of the familiar–in his case, New York–for the adventure and gamble of a new life on the frontier. Perhaps he glanced through the door at the mad rush of people and goods flowing past unabated from daylight to dusk. He was no fool; he understood that business out in the territories would always be more fraught with risk than back in the settled east. But what was life for if not to embrace some of its uncertainty? [Langworthy let Best take the vat and to pay for it once the family began earning money.]

I obviously don’t know if Langworthy looked out at people passing by on the wooden walkway that ran along the front of his shop. So I said that “perhaps” he did so.

But the rest of it? I am confident, based on factual evidence, that I captured the essence of the encounter: Langworthy had abandoned the security of the urban eastern United States and moved to the frontier of Wisconsin Territory. In doing so, he embraced life’s uncertainty. He knew that Phillip’s family had done the same, leaving Europe for the United States. I also knew that he let Phillip take the vat, and allowed him to pay the debt later, an act that surely stemmed from Langworthy’s opinion about the man standing before him.

In short, I believed, based on the facts, that Langworthy understood the nature of risk and uncertainty — and empathized with Phillip’s situation.

So. Historians trade in facts. They learn to trust their judgment about evidence and how to use it. They employ that evidence to construct an engaging narrative, one that is centered around the lives of real people. If the historian telling the “story” is honest and careful and thorough, readers will know that they can trust that the “story” is true.

That’s my story, anyway, and I’m stickin’ to it.

___________________

*1: Hey! Whatsa mattah witch you? GET ONE. (Kidding, people, kidding.) (Okay, sort of.) (Yes, I have a mercenary side. Every author does, ‘cause we ain’t doin’ this for free, you know?)

*2: The brewhouse, by the way, was small: perhaps twenty feet by twenty feet. That’s all they could afford.

*3: Yes, by the time Langworthy recounted that moment to a reporter, he would have been an old man. But he’d likely told the story many times, if only because Best himself went on to become an important and well-known man.

*4: I don’t remember now why I didn’t read the actual newspaper account (it’s been ten years since I worked with those sources). It may have come from a newspaper for which there are no longer copies. (I don’t have a copy of Cochran’s book in front of me so I can’t check to see where the interview was published. Sorry!)

*5: Cochran had a long and respected career as an economic historian. Indeed, he was and is regarded as one of the 20th century’s most important scholars in that field. He wrote his history of Pabst Brewing with the blessings and cooperation of Gustav and Fred, Jr., the sons of Frederick Pabst. Cochran also had access to hundreds of documents that have since been lost or destroyed. As you might imagine, I was, and am, grateful for Cochran’s careful and thorough work as a historian.

*6: Gus was an old man by the time Hernon and Ganey interviewed him in the late 1980s; he died in 1989.

*7: As I conducted my own research for the beer book, I constantly compared what I found to the Ganey/Hernon version of the Busch family. Based on what I knew, I concluded that their book was not a reliable source of information. That assessment isn’t as unkind as it sounds: The men are journalists, not historians, and they had a different agenda for their book than I did for mine.

*8: Non-fiction “fictional histories” abound. (By fictional history, I mean works of non-fiction, NOT historical fiction.) These are cases where an author writes a history of Topic X, but mixes fact and fiction in order to make the story more interesting. For example, someone who writes fictional history might supply his/her “characters” with dialogue, the way a novelist writes dialogue for one of her characters. That’s not how I work, but some authors are more interested in “writing” than in doing history, and for them, it’s easier to create facts and dialogue to suit the purposes of plot and pacing than it is to work within a framework of fact. No surprise, these plot-driven fictional histories resonate with readers. Bestseller non-fiction lists typically include at least one fictional history. Hey, more power to ‘em. Those authors are making a lot more money than I am! (*9)

* 9: The only thing that bugs me about the authors of non-fiction, fictional histories is when they’re identified as “historians.” They’re not historians. They’re writers, most of them damn good ones.(*10)

*10: Yes, I just inserted a footnote within a footnote. And then a footnote within a footnote within a footnote. I’ll stop now. (Footnotes: The historian’s drug of choice.)

The How of the Historian

By me. Here at Medium.

Many people — okay, most people — don’t know what historians do. Not, I hasten to add, that’s there’s any reason that they should know. I don’t know what engineers and radial oncologists do. I assume that engineers design and build dams and bridges, but that’s the beginning, middle, and end of my knowledge about their work. I think radial oncologists read images (x-rays and ultrasounds and so forth) although I’m not sure about that.

Historians, on the other hand, I know something about. I am one.

And the historian in me thinks that perhaps “history” would be more palatable (or, gasp, perhaps even respected) if the “public” — that amorphous mass of others-that-aren’t-ourselves — knew a bit more about how historians do what they do. So I’ll take a stab at it (because god knows my colleagues in the academic world aren’t gonna do it).(*1)


When I’m working on a project (and most of my projects are books) (and I’m pretty much always working on a project), my actual “work” falls into one of two general categories: First I research; then I write about what I’ve learned. The research comes first (because I can’t write until I know something) and is the most time-consuming of the two categories.

In my experience, it’s the “research” part of the equation that causes the most confusion among non-historians. Over and over again, people ask me “So, do you Google to find your facts?”

Answer: No and rarely. (I’ll come back to this later.) Instead, the bulk of my research involves reading “sources” that fall into two general categories: primary and secondary.

Letters written by Ernest Hemingway are primary sources. A book or essay written by another scholar is an example of a secondary source. The author of such a source probably used Hemingway’s letters as primary sources. (Confused yet?)

For example, my second book is a history of Key West, Florida. To write it, I needed to learn about Hemingway, who lived in that city for several years. I didn’t want to write or research a full biography of Hemingway; I did, however, need and want to read what he’d said about Key West.

So I read letters that he and his friends wrote during his and their time in Key West. Then I fleshed out my knowledge of Hemingway’s Key West years by reading biographies of Hemingway (and of many of his friends).

The letters (primary sources) provided Hemingway’s first-hand accounts of Key West. The biographies (secondary sources) provided details of Hemingway’s life (his childhood in Illinois, his years in Paris, etc.)

So it is when conducting research in general, whether the history of beer in America (my last book) or a history of the American way of meat (my forthcoming book). To write those books, I read a wide range of documents — thousands of them. What felt, most of the time, like an endless river of documents.

In the case of my new book, In Meat We Trust: An Unexpected History of Carnivore America, for example, the primary materials included government reports, transcripts of congressional hearings, newspapers (from the 1700s on), books, and meat industry newspapers and magazines.

Secondary materials included books and articles written by historians, geographers, anthropologists, sociologists, and others, all of whom had used other primary materials (such as statistical data) to analyze various aspects of meat consumption, production, and so forth. I exaggerate not a whit when I say that I read thousands of documents, from newspaper articles published in 1725 to Michael Pollan’sOmnivore’s Dilemma. (That latter, by the way, I read as a primary document, not a secondary one.) (NOW are you confused?)

As for that question I’ve been asked fifty bajillion times: “So, do you Google to find your facts?” Not so much. Google is useful primarily as a tool for finding other sources.

Say I’m looking for an issue of a magazine published in 1891 and my local university library doesn’t have that issue (or, cough cough, I’m too lazy that day to leave my desk, go to the library, and sit at a microfilm reader for at least an hour). So I Google to see if that issue is available as a Google Book or in the Hathi Trust collection.

Sometimes I use Google to find specific pieces of information. When I wrote the beer book, for example, I wanted to read the entire text of President Franklin Roosevelt’s first inaugural address. Ten years ago, I would have had to go to the university library to find a copy. Nowadays, that’s the kind of thing I can find online.

But in both cases, I’m looking for something specific. I need a specific fact and I know I can find it in a specific document and, most important, I know that I can find an accurate transcription of that speech online. (Because the big caveat about the digital era is crucial for accurate research: Don’t believe everything you read online.)


Research takes time. As in: months and often years. Seriously. (*2)

First I have to figure out what sources are available, and which of those sources will be useful. That alone can take several months. I also must sift and sort as I work my way through this phase of the project. Do I want to read newspapers first? Should I look at government documents first? Diaries? Letters?

Then I have to find those sources. They aren’t piled in a neat stack somewhere, waiting for me to leaf through them. If I’m lucky, I’ll find much of it in the university library in the town where I live. If what I need isn’t there, often the library is able to borrow it for me.

But much of the material that historians rely on is stored in special collections: at historical societies, for example, or at specialized libraries, or in the “special collections” departments of research libraries. And must of that stuff can’t be borrowed. Think, for example, original copies of letters or diaries that have not been reproduced in any form. If I want to read them, I have to go to the place where they’re stored. For the beer book, I visited a dozen or so different kinds of repositories located in Milwaukee, Chicago, and St. Louis.

A great deal of the material I use is only be available on microfilm or microfiche. I’ve spent the equivalent of several years of my life sitting at microfilm readers loading reels of film, slowly scanning the film, re-winding the reels, etc. (*3)

These days, and hallelujah!, many (although certainly not all) primary sources have been digitized, and even when sources themselves aren’t, indexes that can help me sort through documents are digital. (*4)

That’s been an extraordinary time saver. Even ten years ago, if I wanted to read up on a topic in, say, American Farmer, a serial published in the 19th century, I had to go read the table of contents from each issue of the magazine. Now? I can search by keyword. (Although I’m not sure ifAmerican Farmer has been digitized. But you get the drift.) A timesaver? Ohdeargodinheavenyes.

The downside to digitization, however, is that it’s upped the historian’s ante: Now that so. much. stuff. is available in a way that it was not a decade ago, I fear, as do all historians, that I’ll miss something important. I try to balance that fear with this thought: Even if I miss a source or a fact, I won’t miss the main point or the general thrust. (Still, I’m sure I’m not the only historian who sometimes wakes up in the dark hours thinking “Oh, fuck. What if I’ve missed something!?!?”)

In between reading all those primary documents, whose number is infinite, I’m also reading secondary stuff: Who’s written what that will fill in the gaps in my knowledge and can provide material for background? (See my Hemingway example above.) What have other scholars and experts said about this topic? Does my view jibe with theirs? Am I about to become an intellectual outlier and thus the subject of ridicule? (God forbid.)


The filament that connects all this activity is the brainwork: As I read, I learn, right? So each source or document I read informs the next, and my knowledge about and understanding of my topic is expanding by the moment, each bit and byte of information adding a layer to the whole.

For me, the first year or so of a new project is total confusion. I typically write about topics about which I know nothing, so when I say I’m “learning,” I mean that literally. As we all know, the early moments of learning are ones of bewilderment. “Now what does this mean? How do I do this? What am I supposed to do next?”

So it goes with all these sources. And so goes the process of research: I read. I absorb. I move to the next source. Read. Absorb. Repeat. Hundreds of times. Thousands of times. (I’m not complaining, by the way. I love my work.)

Gradually, and mercifully, bewilderment gives way to understanding and after months, even years, I feel as though I’ve “learned” enough so that I’m ready to start writing.(*5)

And then things get interesting. With a capital I.

As soon as I try to write about what I’ve learned, my brain begins a conversation with itself and with those hundreds/thousands of sources I’ve read. I begin to understand what my book is about and what all those primary and secondary sources mean. And of course the meaning of those sources changes as I begin to examine them in relation to each other.

As my brain filters that information, I respond. In practical terms, that means I must return to my sources and re-read them because I’ve decided that my initial understanding of them was flawed. Or I discover that I need to read different sources, ones that I didn’t realize were relevant.

So off I go to the sources. And then I return to my keyboard — and the process starts all over again.

And that, dear reader, is why it takes me so long to write a book. Five years for the beer book. Seven for the meat book.

Years!” you say. “How can it take you years to write a book?” Look at Michael Pollan or Thomas Friedman or Doris Kearns Goodwin? They publish a new book about once a year. What? Are you stupid? Are you lazy?”

Maybe and maybe. I dunno. I do know, however, that those people have something I don’t have: Help. They pay assistants to do the scut work, much of the research, and, for better or worse, much of their writing, especially of the first drafts. Goodwin and Pollan don’t have to make umpty-bajillion trips to the library. Hell, they don’t even have to scan the indexes and compile the articles and congressional hearings and expert studies. Someone does all that for them. (My weak imagination can’t fathom that kind of help.)

And there you have it: The historian’s life. And now you know: Google isn’t enough.

___________________

  • *1: As a historian, my primary goal is to bring good history to, as I put it, “the rest of us.” Among academic historians, people like me are known as “popular historians.” A bit misleading, that bit of phraseology: it doesn’t mean that I or my work are popular. Rather, I write for a general audience rather than a scholarly one. And yes, people like me are regarded with contempt by the “professional” historians. I have the same credential as them — a Ph.D. — but I don’t have an academic post and therefore my work isn’t quite as “real” as that of “real” historians. (If you figure out why, do let me know.)
  • *2: In no way, shape, or form am I complaining, by the way. I LOVE my work.
  • *3: Mercifully, most places these days have machines that wind and re-wind with the push of a button. In graduate school, I actually damaged my right shoulder cranking the handle of a microfilm reader. (I’m a woman of limited imagination. I can’t make up stuff like that.)
  • *4: This is why I fall over in a heap howling with laughter whenever I hear the two Google Guys saying that they want to digitize everything. Do they have a clue? (Answer: no.) Do they have ANY idea how much “information” there is the world?? And how much of it is stored on pieces of paper piled high in archives around the world? Pals, you ain’t gonna be digitizing “the world’s knowledge” any time soon. Not unless you’re prepared to turn over your immense fortunes to the librarians and archivists of the world.
  • *5: How, you may wonder, do I know when I’ve learned “enough” to move on to the writing? Because the stuff I’m reading starts to “read,” feel, and sound familiar. There aren’t quite so many surprises; the number of unknowns decreases. It’s an intuitive thing.

The Real Deal, Not the Fake One, Part II. Aka Fuck You, Writer-Advice-Givers.

NOW I remember why the title of the previous post. Crap. Brain mush is more advanced than I thought. Yes. Photo. Okay.

So I got new headshots, as they're called, taken for the new book. (And why not? The last ones are seven years old and more than a bit misleading because, well, I'm seven years older . . .  Makes sense to me.)

The People Who Dole Out Advice To Writers (and their numbers are legion and I have no use for their ilk) ALWAYS tell writers: Get a professional headshot taken. And wear makeup. Or at least the women are supposed to wear makeup. Not the men. The women. (*1)

To which I say: Meh. I don't own any makeup. I wore it for about two weeks in eighth grade (at the suggestion of my mother, who also more or less ordered me to a) curl my hair so it would straighten; and b) wear a girdle. (This was the 1960s. I weighed about 100 pounds and was 5'9" at the time. I mean seriously? One of my few acts of teenage rebellion ensued.)

Anyway: here's the photo. This, friends, is what real women look like when they're not photoshopped, airbrushed, or whatever. They look ---- real. And this is what OLD women look like (I'll be sixty in a few months.)

Photo by Ngaire West-Johnson

So to the rest of the world with its "wear makeup" advice, I say: Fuck you.

______________

*1: Random point worth making: EVERYONE on TV is wearing makeup: men, women, kids. Lots of it. It's one reason I hate doing TV. I don't like wearing makeup and don't know how to put it on and usually there's not a pro on hand to do it. And nowadays if one doesn't wear makeup on TV, one looks roughly forty years older than one is and no, I'm kidding. It's the high definition cameras that do it. An HD camera can make a 20 year old look like she's at least fifty. And that's really distracting.

The Real Deal, Not the Fake One

So. I'm here. More or less. Mostly more, oddly enough, because a big chunk of my brain is thinking about how to manage this website and the blog over the next year or so. My poor brain is working over time --- indeed, most days I feel as though a SERIOUS fermentation is taking place inside my skull. A full, roiling bubble of mysterious gases, micro-organisms, and chemical processes and reactions.

Fermentation/sljive/plums/rakija

If I could clone myself, or graft on an additional set of hands for typing, this blog would be clogged to the max with all manner of observations and ideas. Instead, about half the fermentation evaporates before I can grab hold of it.

Frustrating.

But part of what's going on is that I'm trying to figure out how to use that ferment to its maximal value (not sure that makes sense?) AND, more important, where, precisely to deposit the output. I started blogging in 2006 and the universe of online media has changed dramatically in that time, and especially so in the past year.

For example, there's a new outlet available called Medium. It's still in beta (more or less) but I asked for and got an account. I've still not used it (except privately: meaning my output there can't be seen by anyone but me) because as I explored the site, I realized: "Oh, hell. This is a valuable tool, but it's one that needs to be used with care rather than in the random, slapdash way I use my own blog/site."

And that, in turn, got me thinking even more than I already was about this site here and how to use it.

And of course there's also Facebook which, as it turns out, is an incredibly useful way to zip off the random stuff I used to dump here. Which in turn made me realize how random my output here at the site was and also made me wonder how wise that was and . . .

You see my dilemma: An abundance of riches in my brain (well, okay, they're only riches in my own mind, no pun intended; no doubt 99% of the ferment is total crap) plus an abundance of ways to disseminate it plus entirely too many demands tugging at my time equals --- a stalled engine.

Or so it feels like to me.

Add this to the mix: This is the moment in the book production process when many people are in charge of my life.

Most days, I decide what to do and when to do it and how to do it. But when book production is in full swing, as it is now, I'm no longer in charge of anything. Instead, other people, all with their own multiple deadlines and demands, are calling the shots. It's not easy to shift gears and go from being the boss to being the flunky, if you know what I mean. (Not that I'm complaining. I'm not. Many writers would like to be in my shoes.)

Anyway --- I started out with a point and now, of course, and no surprise, have completely forgotten what that point was. You see? Ferment in this case too often equals mush.

I just finished reading Michael Pollan's new book Cooked, and fermentation and chemical processes are much on my mind. As is the content of a longish review of the book -- which, by the way, I HIGHLY recommend. Forget his politics. The guy is an incredibly good writer. I read that kind of prose and think to myself "Why bother? Go back to waiting tables, you fool."

But it's probably too late for that. (Unless the new book simply bombs, in which case I may well call it quits. Although I rather doubt anyone will want a sixty-year-old waitress, especially one who's not waited tables now for about 25 years.)

But what WAS I going to say here? The title of this entry meant something when I started . . .  See? BRAIN MUSH.

The Sticky Post; aka What's Going On Here?

Box of thumbtacks / Box of push pins

If you're a first-time visitor (perhaps you're here because you've heard about my new book, a history of meat in America), here's an explanation of what this site is and does. (Because: annoying to pay a first visit to a website and depart less informed than when you arrived.)

First:

My site's an extension of my "real" house. I've invited you into the living room. I plan to behave accordingly and hope you will, too.

Second:

The header contains links to anything you could possibly want to know about me or my work: books, other projects,  credentials, etc. The email address is to your right>>>> over there in the sidebar. Feel free.

Third:

The day-to-day action unfolds via blog entries. Yes, I blog. Not fifty times a day (unless I'm on a roll) but regularly.

About every ten or so months, the "blogging is dead" pronouncements rattle around the interwebs: Facebook and Twitter and G+ have eliminated the need for thinking, writing, rumination. Or so say some. I disagree. Blogging is a remarkably powerful, useful, and vital form of communication. Long may it live.

I use my blog to a) rant about what's on my mind; and b) think about my work as a whole.

As a result, those happening on it for the first time (and that would be you) might mistake it for a disorganized, unfocused mess. It's not (she says modestly). The entries, in all their multifarious wonder (or not), are manifestations of my brain at work.

If you visit regularly, the logic becomes clear. If you're just passing by, the category menu on the right>>>>  represents the many directions this blog can and does take.

As noted above, IN MEAT WE TRUST: An Unexpected History of Carnivore America, arrives in the fall. As of this writing (April 13, 2013), I'm laying the groundwork for that launch as well as pondering three new projects: Two shorts and a new book. I plan to use the blog to "think" about each of those projects. Thinking aloud, as it were, by using my fingers, a keyboard, and a connection to the world. (I hasten to add that 90% of my thinking unfolds in my other, three-dimensional office.)

So. Stick around. Or not. (I won't be offended. It's a big, busy world and we've all got places to go.)  In either case, THANK YOU for stopping by and for making reading part of your life.