Why You Might Miss Anheuser-Busch When It's Gone.

In the current issue of Beer Advocate magazine (volume II, issue X) a reader chides the magazine's publishers/editors for running ads from the "big" brewers.

". . . I don't think BA should be a forum for the advertisers at BudMillerCoors. In the same way, I don't want to see a Wal-Mart ad in my sub-culture, indie-rock magazine, even if Wal-Mart's music department claims to bring in 'the latest alternative music.'"

He goes on to say:

"BA has a history of representing a subculture of small-batch brewers. If you open the doors to every size of beer, BA loses some of its identity as a billboard for the little guy."

I understand the writer's irritation with what he interprets as an invasion into "his" sub-culture.

But here's another perspective on the situation: Take away the three full-page ads for A-B products found in the same issue of Beer Advocate, and that issue of Beer Advocate might not have appeared at all. Ditto for All About Beer and Draft magazines.

Yes, there are plenty of other beer ads in the beer magazines, but the majority of them are mostly quarter-page ads. That's all that most small brewers can afford, but that's probably not enough to keep the magazines going. Put another way, the "big" brewers (or, as the letter-writer calls them, "BudMillerCoors") help subsidize beer journalism.

If you enjoy reading Beer Advocate, thank A-B (and MillerCoors and some of the bigger importers) for helping make the magazine possible. Sometime in the next few weeks, InBev will likely complete its acquisition of Anheuser-Busch. Expect a fair amount of fist-pumping and "take thats" from beer bloggers and participants in the on-line forums as they celebrate A-B's "demise But here's another thought -- and now I'm quoting myself from a piece I wrote for the October issue of Modern Brewery Age:

The gloating may be premature. It’s hard to imagine Carlos Brito funding an endowed chair at the nation’s most prestigious brewing school, as A-B did at University of California-Davis some years ago. Flip through one of the beer-consumer magazines and look at the expensive glossy ads that A-B buys each month. Will the penny-pinching Brito continue the practice? Can the magazines survive if he does not?

And what about the “Here’s To Beer" campaign?

A few years ago, A-B suggested that brewers mount a collective, industry-wide campaign to promote beer as a sophisticated beverage for discerning consumers, something brewing needed as aging consumers turned to wine and spirits.

Brewers said no thanks, and beer geeks mocked the suggestion. (Would they have done the same if the idea had come from, say, Jim Koch?) A-B went ahead anyway -- and left no fingerprints. As far as the average consumer knows, this was just beer’s version of the milk industry’s “Got Milk?" campaign. Craft brewers in particular would have benefited from the project, but the opportunity is likely gone for good.

And so, apparently, is the Busch family. But as American brewers witness the end of an extraordinary saga, I hope they’ll take a moment to ponder the Long View and the Big Picture: For more than 140 years, the Busch fathers and sons waged war, created enemies, and broke hearts. But their warrior stance also inspired competitors to aim higher and work harder; inspired them to imagine a better beer. As the door closes, take a moment to say thanks.

 

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My thanks to Pete Reid, editor and publisher of Modern Brewery Age ,for allowing me to quote from my essay "Farewell and Thanks: Why The Busch Family Mattered," which appeared in the October 2008 issue. You can read the entire piece (and the entire issue) here.

James And Andy At GABF 2008

The amazing and indefatigable James Spencer and Andy Sparks of basicbrewing.com have uploaded (downloaded?) their video and audio recordings from this year's GABF. These guys were everywhere, camera and microphones in hand. If you want to experience a GABF without the expense of actually, ya know, traveling to Denver, visit their site. Click on "Podcasts" for both the audio and video collection. (They are also, I might add, two of the nicest guys I know.)

WSJ Piece On Global Beer Sales

Good overview of global beer sales in this morning's Wall Street Journal. Make sure to check out the pie-chart graphic, which provides an instant snapshot of who sells what and where. (As always, this article may or may not be free to non-subscribers, but many Journal pieces show up on other news services, so check google as well.)

Beer (And Americans) In Italy

From the beer-frontlines in Italy: reports from Charlie Papazian and the New York Times. Charlie has filed several reports at his blog, so scroll down for those. I'm assuming he was or is at the same event at the Times reporter. Stan is apparently also floating around there somewhere; the Times report mentions him. And this all brings to mind a post from Jay some months back, about an Italian-beer-making session at Russian River. Anyway, yet another reason to visit Italy!

Budweiser American Ale on NPR

Yesterday I was out and about most of the day (shaking hands with Barack Obama, among other things). I rarely get out and so I rarely listen to the radio, but in late afternoon I listened to "All Things Considered" on NPR -- and discovered that Budweiser American Ale is one of its sponsors.

The commercial was smart: emphasizing the flavor, malt, and hops of the beer. Just the kind of thing to appeal to NPR's "upscale," educated, more-hip-than-average audience. (*1) So that's good news for Anheuser-Busch and American Ale: if the company wants this "different" beer to succeed, it's going to have to go places A-B has not gone before.

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*1: Or at least that's supposed to be the demographic for NPR. Personally, I can't stomach the stuff. Way too pretentious, most of it, and the "news" coverage is extraordinarily lop-sided. No one there pretends they want to present both sides of any argument. NPR is the yin to the yang of Fox News. Well, I guess MSNBC is the yin to Fox's yang, those both being television. But you get my point.